DIRECTOR OF THE SRPI
Taylor Reed, Director of the Sportrock Performance Institute, is an integral part of the SRPI project. He integrates evidence-based performance practices to enhance the climbing potential for our Youth Team as well as our members. The SRPI is a teaching and learning institute. Understanding individual climber’s needs are at the core of SRPI’s state-of-the-art assessment center and its video analysis room. The SRPI will house a variety of measurement tests and evaluation tools. Whether it’s biomechanics, cognitive-motor learning, or sports psychology, the SRPI offers the capability to assess-in-detail to be able to promote an individualized path to performance. As the science and practical applications of climbing continue to evolve, the SRPI will update methods for our climbers in training. Also in his free time, Taylor serves as the Secretary of the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) — an organization dedicated to supporting the research behind climbing.
He oversees Sportrock’s Youth Team; working closely with coaches and climbers to organize our coaching content and to integrate evidence-based performance practices.
The Performance Fellows
The Sportrock Performance Institute is developing innovative technical assessments to help climbers understand their movement on the wall. We analyze, evaluate, and make recommendations for each individual’s style of movement during climbing in each assessment. Detailed assessments and coaching will help climbers to optimize their climbing. You have the option of either requesting the Climber Technical Effectiveness Assessment (CTEA) or the Climber Efficiency Assessment (CEA).
Climber Forces & Energy Systems Assessments
Have you ever found yourself wondering how strong your fingers and arms are? How fast you can pull and how fast you can grab? When your failure point is and how to train it? The SRPI will house cutting edge assessment technology and methods to answer all of those questions. Additionally, we’ll help you visualize and interpret your assessment in a way that makes it practical to use. To access this assessment, request the Climber Force Assessment (CFA).
Psych Performance Assessments
An athlete’s mentality is just as important as their physicality. Their thoughts, goals, motives, and emotions all play a critical part in their performance. At the Sportrock Performance Institute, our goal is to facilitate the development of well-rounded athletes in mind and body. Please contact the Director to let them know your interest.