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Writer's pictureJeffrey Shor

Michael Nanney: An Open Letter to the Community That Has Shaped Me

Updated: Aug 16


Dear Sportrock Community,


My name is Michael Nanney, and my journey with Sportrock began in February of 1996 when I stood on the entrance ramp to Sportrock Alexandria waiting for its Grand Opening and the opportunity to become Alexandria's first member. I was just a 19-year-old kid then, unaware of the profound impact this place, this sport, and this community would have on my life.


By 1998, I was consistently climbing at the 5.12 grade and dreaming of more, a level of proficiency that had felt otherworldly just a couple of years earlier when I had first walked into Sportrock. Under the teaching qualifications then in place, climbing at this level allowed me to teach Sportrock’s movement technique classes, which I did for the next five years. From 1998 until 2003, you could find me at the New River Gorge at least 20 weekends each year. I also spent some time at Seneca (my first trad lead was the world’s hardest 5.7, Candy Corner) and traveling to climb at destinations around the US. Most importantly, I met incredible people, including Brian and Lillian Chao-Quinlan, who would become dear friends and lifelong climbing partners. Ultimately, it was the power of this personal relationship, my connection to Sportrock, and my love for climbing that would radically change the direction of my life.


From left, Michael Nanney, Owner & CEO of Sportrock Climbing Centers, and Lillian Chao-Quinlan, Owner & Executive Chair of Sportrock Climbing Centers, smile big during a final walkthrough of Sportrock Rio.

Through climbing and the mentors I met at Sportrock, I gained skills that served me well in both the business world and my personal life. Yet, climbing has always been my passion. I became an owner and Sportrock board member in 2005. Fast forward to 2022, when my long-time friend and business partner, Lillian, approached me about her desire to step into a new phase of life. Lillian, myself, and the board had three options, we could sell the company outright, do a deal with private equity, or find someone who knows Sportrock deeply and could continue to run the company with the same values that Lillian has championed for all these years… Lillian chose the latter! On a visit to Whole Foods after a climbing session that same year, Lillian asked if I would consider becoming CEO. I felt an undeniable pull to return to the community and place that shaped my adult life.


Ultimately, it was the power of this personal relationship, my connection to Sportrock, and my love for climbing that would radically change the direction of my life.

In July of this year, I fully transitioned into my new role as CEO. I am committed to building upon the foundation established over the past 30 years. I will use my own experience and unique skill set to help guide the Sportrock team into our next chapter, while continuing to embrace the legacy of cultivating new climbers and fostering a passion for climbing, knowing firsthand how transformative it can be.


Sportrock’s ownership has never taken a dollar of profit out of the business; we invest everything back into our company, our facilities, and our people. This commitment to reinvestment is what drives our ability to grow and thrive as a community. Looking ahead, I am excited to share our plans for Sportrock's future. We aim to expand our footprint and build new gyms in the area, all while remaining deeply tied to our community and our roots as a gym For Climbers, By Climbers. As we grow, we remain dedicated to preserving the quality and community spirit that have always defined Sportrock.


I look forward to seeing new faces and old friends at Beat the Heat, please come say hello!


With great appreciation,



A portrait Michael Nanney CEO, Sportrock Climbing Centers

Michael Nanney

Sportrock Climbing Centers

Owner, CEO


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